LIST OF PEAKS CLIMBED

High Sierra

  • Peak: Abbot
    Route:Std East Face Route
    Grade:Class 3
    Date:May 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Much more fun with all the new snow. The low down traverse kept my attention, while the upper traverse is really cool, and easy.
  • Peak: Aiguille Junior
    Route:East Buttress
    Grade:IV 5.8 A1
    Date:May 1981
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:9 pitches, done in mountain boots
  • Peak: Basin
    Route:East Face Couloir
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): w/ Rob Garneau
    Notes:Finish was much nicer than Independence but the snow was to heavy for good skiing.
  • Peak: Bear Creek Spire
    Route:Northeast Face
    Grade:II 5.5
    Date:May 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A route with a fair number of options, but I get the feeling most people do this the same way I did. Touch of 5th class and a cold west side finish on the North Arete. Easy downclimb descent to the Col.
  • Peak: Cathedral
    Route:Southeast Face
    Grade:II 5.7
    Date:Sept 1995
    Partner(s): w/ Eric Olsen and Rob Garneau
    Notes:Fun, but a bit short. Rock quality seemed lacking. Really grainy.
  • Peak: Clouds Rest
    Route:East Ridge
    Grade:Class 2
    Date:Sept 2017
    Partner(s): w/ Betsy Harrison
    Notes:Nice long hike. Weekend crowds were huge, but what can you expect, it's Yosemite.
  • Peak: Dade
    Route:North Face
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): w/ Rob Garneau
    Notes:Great route. Probably should have dug a snow pit as the face slide about 4 days later.
  • Peak: Dana
    Route:Std North Side
    Grade:Class 2
    Date:June 2009
    Partner(s): w/ Jim Nupp
    Notes:Nice hike. Best done in spring when the snow fields add a bit of spice to the effort.
  • Peak: Darwin
    Route:North Face
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Date:June 1981
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Casual route on north face. Descended the West Ridge
  • Peak: Emerson
    Route:SE Face
    Grade:III 5.4
    Date:Sept 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Went at the 5.4 move all wrong - maybe even in the wrong place, so decided to take the alternate start to the right.
  • Peak: Feather
    Route:SW Ridge
    Grade:Class 3/4
    Date:June 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A good route from the pass. Just stick with the arete as much as you can.
  • Peak: Gilbert
    Route:Ingram Couloir
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Date:June 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Not much of a freeze the night before. So kicking steps was the order of the day. The obvious finish is the 3rd class version. Long descent via Treasure Col
  • Peak: Goethe - Northeast Peak
    Route:North West Face
    Grade:moderate snow, class 4
    Date:May 2009
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Lots of new but stable snow. Made the rock climbing a bit more interesting that's for sure.
  • Peak: Goode
    Route:North Buttress
    Grade:III 5.9
    Date:July 1983
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:6 pitches on a so so route
  • Peak: Gould
    Route:South slopes
    Grade:Class 2
    Date:May 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Nice bouldering finish to this route is totally out of character with the slog up the hill from Kearsarge Pass
  • Peak: Haeckel
    Route:North Face / North Ridge
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:June 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:One of the best routes I've done. The couloir approach is spring only but gives the route a true alpine flavor. The rock finish is really good. The quality excellent. Descended the west side of the peak which seems alot more obvious.
  • Peak: Humphreys
    Route:Std Northwest Face
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:June 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Doing this route is sping is a good idea. The chute is far more fun when it's full of snow. The upper crack system was a bit icy that day. Certainly kept things interesting. The crux is short but spectacular.
  • Peak: Huxley
    Route:North Face
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Date:June 1981
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A fun route that is only worthy of your time when spring conditions prevail.
  • Peak: Independence
    Route:East Face Couloir
    Grade:
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): w/ Rob Garneau
    Notes:Rob skied, I watched.
  • Peak: Lamarck
    Route:North Face Coluoir
    Grade:AI2, moderately steep snow
    Date:May 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Good conditions though it gets too much sun so was melted out at the top.
  • Peak: Langley
    Route:Std South Face Route
    Grade:Class 2
    Date:May 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Another long walk that could be really boring once all the snow is gone. In this case there was plenty of it, even after a lean winter.
  • Peak: Lone Pine Peak
    Route:North Ridge
    Grade:III 5.7
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Big winter. Still a fair amount of snow on the route. Hardest part was the direct ridge as the Fin section was still snowy.
  • Peak: Matterhorn
    Route:West Ridge
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:Sept 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:No expectations with what little beta I had. Turns out if you stay with the ridge all the way, it's an excellent route.
  • Peak: Mendel
    Route:Mendel Couloir
    Grade:AI 3
    Date:Aug 1975
    Partner(s): w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner
    Notes:Back in the day when this climb was a classic all year long.
  • Peak: Muir
    Route:Std West Face scramble
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:May 2015
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A bit more interesting doing this on a cold day with spin-drift all over the ledges on the summit block.
  • Peak: Pilot Knob
    Route:Std North Face scramble
    Grade:Class 3
    Date:Sept 2015
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A short but well situated route that has a great view in all directions.
  • Peak: Powell
    Route:North Face
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Date:May 2009
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Straight forward route, Best done in spring when Echo lake is still frozen.
  • Peak: Russell
    Route:East Ridge
    Grade:Class 3
    Date:May 2014
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Much more of an alpine route in the spring. Still straight forward. Lousy sunrise after all the effort to get up the sandy slope in the dark.
  • Peak: Starlight
    Route:Northwest Chute
    Grade:Class 4
    Date:Sept 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:One of the best of the so called 'chute' routes on the west side. Has a fair amount of character. You can pick a wonderful line in the upper chute, but finding that on the way down is impossible. Way too much loose choss takes the edge of a wonderful route. Did 5 raps along the way.
  • Peak: Thompson
    Route:Harrington Couloir
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Date:May 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Spring conditions for sure. Snow was in good nick. Bit of a bulge going over the lip at the top. Descended via the North Ridge
  • Peak: Tyndall
    Route:Northwest Face
    Grade:AI 2
    Date:May 2014
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A good route taking into account that the idea was to stay on the snow as much as possible. Should have come down the same way. The west face was long, tedious and the talus was loose. Big winds arrived that afternoon.
  • Peak: University
    Route:North Buttress / East Face
    Grade:IV 5.9 A1
    Date:May 1983
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:11 pitches, only completed the lower half of the route we had in mind, ran out of time so moved left to finish on easier ground, descended in the dark
  • Peak: University
    Route:Northwest Face
    Grade:AI 2
    Date:May 2014
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Spur of the moment change of plans. A good line on this side of the mountain. Not very steep but good situations non the less. Descended off the south side via University Pass.
  • Peak: Whitney
    Route:Mount Whitney
    Grade:Class 2
    Date:May 1975
    Partner(s): w/ Chip Cole and Mary Erdei
    Notes:Fair amount of snow, but few if any other people around for the end of May. Lucky us.
  • Peak: Winchell
    Route:Southeast Face
    Grade:Class 3
    Date:June 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A fun route on high quality rock.

  • Climbs completed for which I have lost or do not have any images
  • Lamarck ~ 13,417ft
    • North Face Coluoir - AI2, moderately steep snow - solo - 1981 -  (This climb is part of a larger album. Open the full album)

      The first climb on the memorable North Lake to South Lake loop in 1981. Can't recall seeing anyone the whole week I was out there.
  • Matterhorn ~ 12,285ft
    • North Arete - II 5.5 - w/ Mary Erdei - 1983
      The approach was more memorable than the climb. A big snow year made for dangerous stream conditions where large sections of snow still covered open water. Our golden was in big trouble as the stream roared towards the cold dark opening. I had just enough time to drop my pack and leap to a small island of grass and grab her as the current carried her towards a certain death.
  • Russell ~ 14,088ft
    • West Face - III 5.9 - w/ Bryan Becker - 1977
      On a cloudy day with flurries and minimal views, Bryan and I did a route on the West Face. It could have been the Mithral, but I can't say for sure.
  • Thunderbolt ~ 14,003ft
    • Southwest Buttress - Class 5 - solo - 1981
      Up this route and down the SW Chute. I did not climb the summit block. Again I did not see anyone while I was on this climb