LIST OF PEAKS CLIMBED

High Sierra

  • Peak: Abbot
    Route:Std East Face Route
    Grade:Class 3
    Elevation: 13,704 ft.
    Date:May 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Much more fun with all the new snow. The low down traverse kept my attention, while the upper traverse is really cool, and easy.
  • Peak: Aiguille Junior
    Route:East Buttress
    Grade:IV 5.8 A1
    Elevation: 13,927 ft.
    Date:May 1981
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:9 pitches, done in mountain boots
  • Peak: Angel Wings
    Route:Becky Route
    Grade:V 5.9 A3
    Elevation: 10,360 ft.
    Date:Jan 1981
    Partner(s): w/ Jay Wilson
    Notes:Hard to believe I didn't take more pictures on this route. Temps were really mild for January. Bit of snow in the shadows - that's about it.
  • Peak: Basin
    Route:East Face Couloir
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 13,181 ft.
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): w/ Rob Garneau
    Notes:Finish was much nicer than Independence but the snow was to heavy for good skiing.
  • Peak: Bear Creek Spire
    Route:North Ridge
    Grade:III 5.9
    Elevation: 13,720 ft.
    Date:June 1977
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker
    Notes:From what I can recall, I do remember being a little underwhelmed by this climb.
  • Peak: Bear Creek Spire
    Route:Northeast Face
    Grade:II 5.5
    Elevation: 13,720 ft.
    Date:May 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A route with a fair number of options, but I get the feeling most people do this the same way I did. Touch of 5th class and a cold west side finish on the North Arete. Easy downclimb descent to the Col.
  • Peak: Cathedral
    Route:Southeast Face
    Grade:II 5.7
    Elevation: 10,911 ft.
    Date:Sept 1995
    Partner(s): w/ Eric Olsen and Rob Garneau
    Notes:Fun, but a bit short. Rock quality seemed lacking. Really grainy.
  • Peak: Cleaver, The
    Route:Southeast Buttress
    Grade:III 5.7
    Elevation: 13,382 ft.
    Date:Aug 1979
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:Wasn't known as the Cleaver back then.
  • Peak: Clouds Rest
    Route:East Ridge
    Grade:Class 2
    Elevation: 9,931 ft.
    Date:Sept 2017
    Partner(s): w/ Betsy Harrison
    Notes:Nice long hike. Weekend crowds were huge, but what can you expect, it's Yosemite.
  • Peak: Conness
    Route:Harding Route
    Grade:IV 5.10 A2
    Elevation: 12,590 ft.
    Date:Sept 1979
    Partner(s): w/ Mark Whiton and Rainsford Rouner
    Notes:Summited as the sun set and spent a comfy night with food and sleeping bags followed by a mellow descent the next morning.
  • Peak: Dade
    Route:North Face
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 13,600 ft.
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): w/ Rob Garneau
    Notes:Great route. Probably should have dug a snow pit as the face slide about 4 days later.
  • Peak: Dana
    Route:Std North Side
    Grade:Class 2
    Elevation: 13,057 ft.
    Date:June 2009
    Partner(s): w/ Jim Nupp
    Notes:Nice hike. Best done in spring when the snow fields add a bit of spice to the effort.
  • Peak: Darwin
    Route:North Face
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,831 ft.
    Date:June 1981
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Casual route on north face. Descended the West Ridge
  • Peak: Emerson
    Route:SE Face
    Grade:III 5.4
    Elevation: 13,225 ft.
    Date:Sept 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Went at the 5.4 move all wrong - maybe even in the wrong place, so decided to take the alternate start to the right.
  • Peak: Feather
    Route:SW Ridge
    Grade:Class 3/4
    Elevation: 13,240 ft.
    Date:June 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A good route from the pass. Just stick with the arete as much as you can.
  • Peak: Gilbert
    Route:Ingram Couloir
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,106 ft.
    Date:June 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Not much of a freeze the night before. So kicking steps was the order of the day. The obvious finish is the 3rd class version. Long descent via Treasure Col
  • Peak: Goethe - Northeast Peak
    Route:North West Face
    Grade:moderate snow, class 4
    Elevation: 13,040 ft.
    Date:May 2009
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Lots of new but stable snow. Made the rock climbing a bit more interesting that's for sure.
  • Peak: Goode
    Route:North Buttress
    Grade:III 5.9
    Elevation: 13,085 ft.
    Date:July 1983
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:6 pitches on a so so route
  • Peak: Gould
    Route:South slopes
    Grade:Class 2
    Elevation: 13,012 ft.
    Date:May 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Nice bouldering finish to this route is totally out of character with the slog up the hill from Kearsarge Pass
  • Peak: Haeckel
    Route:North Face / North Ridge
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 13,418 ft.
    Date:June 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:One of the best routes I've done. The couloir approach is spring only but gives the route a true alpine flavor. The rock finish is really good. The quality excellent. Descended the west side of the peak which seems alot more obvious.
  • Peak: Humphreys
    Route:Std Northwest Face
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 13,986 ft.
    Date:June 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Doing this route is sping is a good idea. The chute is far more fun when it's full of snow. The upper crack system was a bit icy that day. Certainly kept things interesting. The crux is short but spectacular.
  • Peak: Huxley
    Route:North Face
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,086 ft.
    Date:June 1981
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A fun route that is only worthy of your time when spring conditions prevail.
  • Peak: Independence
    Route:East Face Couloir
    Grade:
    Elevation: 11,742 ft.
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): w/ Rob Garneau
    Notes:Rob skied, I watched.
  • Peak: Keeler Needle
    Route:Harding Route
    Grade:V 5.10 A1
    Elevation: 14,239 ft.
    Date:Aug 1976
    Partner(s): w/ Rainsford Rouner
    Notes:Done with a bivy and minimal aid just in front of Rowell and friends doing the FFA. I forgot the water, so we couldn't really eat anything that night. Mary meet us half down the Mountaineers route and fortunately for us she had lot of water with her!
  • Peak: Lamarck
    Route:North Face Coluoir
    Grade:AI2, moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,417 ft.
    Date:May 1981
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:The first climb on the memorable North Lake to South Lake loop in 1981. Can't recall seeing anyone the whole week I was out there.
  • Peak: Lamarck
    Route:North Face Coluoir
    Grade:AI2, moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,417 ft.
    Date:May 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Good conditions though it gets too much sun so was melted out at the top.
  • Peak: Langley
    Route:Std South Face Route
    Grade:Class 2
    Elevation: 14,026 ft.
    Date:May 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Another long walk that could be really boring once all the snow is gone. In this case there was plenty of it, even after a lean winter.
  • Peak: Lone Pine Peak
    Route:North Ridge
    Grade:III 5.7
    Elevation: 12,944 ft.
    Date:June 2011
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Big winter. Still a fair amount of snow on the route. Hardest part was the direct ridge as the Fin section was still snowy.
  • Peak: Matterhorn
    Route:West Ridge
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 12,285 ft.
    Date:Sept 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:No expectations with what little beta I had. Turns out if you stay with the ridge all the way, it's an excellent route.
  • Peak: Mendel
    Route:Mendel Couloir
    Grade:AI 3
    Elevation: 13,710 ft.
    Date:Aug 1975
    Partner(s): w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner
    Notes:Back in the day when this climb was a classic all year long.
  • Peak: Muir
    Route:Std West Face scramble
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 14,012 ft.
    Date:May 2015
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A bit more interesting doing this on a cold day with spin-drift all over the ledges on the summit block.
  • Peak: Peak 13016
    Route:East Buttress
    Grade:IV 5.8
    Elevation: 13,016 ft.
    Date:May 1981
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:Can't remember much about this pretty nice route on the right(east) side of the big face on Pk 30016+. Descended the snow gully to the east w/o axes or crampons at the end of the day. Not to smart.
  • Peak: Pilot Knob
    Route:Std North Face scramble
    Grade:Class 3
    Elevation: 12,245 ft.
    Date:Sept 2015
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A short but well situated route that has a great view in all directions.
  • Peak: Powell
    Route:North Face
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,364 ft.
    Date:May 2009
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Straight forward route, Best done in spring when Echo lake is still frozen.
  • Peak: Russell
    Route:East Ridge
    Grade:Class 3
    Elevation: 14,088 ft.
    Date:May 2014
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Much more of an alpine route in the spring. Still straight forward. Lousy sunrise after all the effort to get up the sandy slope in the dark.
  • Peak: Sill
    Route:Swiss Arete
    Grade:II 5.7
    Elevation: 14,153 ft.
    Date:Sept 1979
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:After Mary and I bailed on the main East Face, the next day I was just too restless and in need of getting up something, so I soloed this route thinking it was 5.4
  • Peak: Stanford
    Route:East Face
    Grade:III 5.8
    Elevation: 13,973 ft.
    Date:Aug 1979
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:One memorable day on a good new route for which I will always berate myself for losing all the images from the climb. Damn! There was major undercast clouds which definitely added to the drama. Skies cleared as we moved along the summit ridge. Seemed pretty straight-forward getting off the peak by descending SE from the low point before Gregory's Monument.
  • Peak: Starlight
    Route:Starlilght Pillar
    Grade:III 5.9
    Elevation: 14,200 ft.
    Date:Sept 1976
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:A long wonderful day. Had no idea how to get off the peak, but ended up doing what is now the std descent via the NE Face.
  • Peak: Starlight
    Route:Northwest Chute
    Grade:Class 4
    Elevation: 14,200 ft.
    Date:Sept 2018
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:One of the best of the so called 'chute' routes on the west side. Has a fair amount of character. You can pick a wonderful line in the upper chute, but finding that on the way down is impossible. Way too much loose choss takes the edge of a wonderful route. Did 5 raps along the way.
  • Peak: Temple Crag
    Route:Sun Ribbon Arete
    Grade:IV 5.10a
    Elevation: 12,976 ft.
    Date:June 1977
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker
    Notes:A long day no doubt. Skipped the summit and started down as soon as we could. A rope of 3 should simul climb or belay both seconds at the same time. I can't recall if we did either.
  • Peak: Thompson
    Route:Harrington Couloir
    Grade:moderately steep snow
    Elevation: 13,494 ft.
    Date:May 2012
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Spring conditions for sure. Snow was in good nick. Bit of a bulge going over the lip at the top. Descended via the North Ridge
  • Peak: Tyndall
    Route:Northwest Face
    Grade:AI 2
    Elevation: 14,019 ft.
    Date:May 2014
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A good route taking into account that the idea was to stay on the snow as much as possible. Should have come down the same way. The west face was long, tedious and the talus was loose. Big winds arrived that afternoon.
  • Peak: University
    Route:North Buttress / East Face
    Grade:IV 5.9 A1
    Elevation: 13,589 ft.
    Date:May 1983
    Partner(s): w/ Mary Erdei
    Notes:11 pitches, only completed the lower half of the route we had in mind, ran out of time so moved left to finish on easier ground, descended in the dark
  • Peak: University
    Route:Northwest Face
    Grade:AI 2
    Elevation: 13,589 ft.
    Date:May 2014
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:Spur of the moment change of plans. A good line on this side of the mountain. Not very steep but good situations none the less. Descended off the south side via University Pass.
  • Peak: Whitney
    Route:Mount Whitney
    Grade:Class 2
    Elevation: 14,498 ft.
    Date:May 1975
    Partner(s): w/ Chip Cole and Mary Erdei
    Notes:Fair amount of snow, but few if any other people around for the end of May. Lucky us.
  • Peak: Winchell
    Route:Southeast Face
    Grade:Class 3
    Elevation: 13,775 ft.
    Date:June 2013
    Partner(s): solo
    Notes:A fun route on high quality rock.

  • Climbs completed for which I have lost or do not have any images
  • Matterhorn ~ 12,285ft
    • North Arete - II 5.5 - w/ Mary Erdei - 1983
      The approach was more memorable than the climb. A big snow year made for dangerous stream conditions where large sections of snow still covered open water. Our golden was in big trouble as the stream roared towards the cold dark opening. I had just enough time to drop my pack and leap to a small island of grass and grab her as the current carried her towards a certain death.
  • Russell ~ 14,088ft
    • West Face - III 5.9 - w/ Bryan Becker - 1977 -  (This climb is part of a larger album. Open the full album)

      On a cloudy day with flurries and minimal views, Bryan and I did a route on the West Face. It could have been the Mithral, but I can't say for sure.
  • Thunderbolt ~ 14,003ft
    • Southwest Buttress - Class 5 - solo - 1981 -  (This climb is part of a larger album. Open the full album)

      Up this route and down the SW Chute. I did not climb the summit block. Again I did not see anyone while I was on this climb