High Sierra

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• Peak:	Abbot
  Route:	Std East Face Route
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	13,704 ft.
  Date:	May 2012
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Much more fun with all the new snow. The low down traverse kept my attention, while the upper traverse is really cool, and easy.

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• Peak:	Acrodectes
  Route:	East Ridge
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	13,158 ft.
  Date:	May 2021
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A fine springtime route done from the north. Often approached from Baxter Pass in the summer. The trail to Sawmill Pass is a far nicer way to get there. In spring the north side approach provides all the spice for this worthy route. Staying as close to the edge of the East Ridge is where the solid rock is. Thats where the exposure and good views can be found. The gully is steeper than it looks. It was also a fairly intense downclimb seeing that I did not have an ice axe with me. Crampons were a must as the snow was still on the hard side of the scale.

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• Peak:	Agassiz
  Route:	Northwest Face
  Grade:	moderate snow, 3rd class
  Elevation:	13,893 ft.
  Date:	May 2021
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A popular non-technical peak with a straightforward set of choices from Bishop Pass. When there is snow to be had, the NW Face seems like the route to do. Even on a low snow year, this end of May climb was on snow all the way to the small false summit not 200 feet from the top. A complex set of ridges make it difficult for first time climbers to choose the best way off the peak. That would be my case.

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• Peak:	Aiguille Junior
  Route:	East Buttress
  Grade:	IV 5.8 A1
  Elevation:	13,927 ft.
  Date:	May 1981
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	9 pitches, done in mountain boots

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• Peak:	Angel Wings
  Route:	Becky Route
  Grade:	V 5.9 A3
  Elevation:	10,360 ft.
  Date:	Jan 1981
  Partner(s):	w/ Jay Wilson
  Notes:	Hard to believe I didn't take more pictures on this route. Temps were really mild for January. Bit of snow in the shadows - that's about it.

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• Peak:	Basin
  Route:	East Face Couloir
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	13,181 ft.
  Date:	June 2011
  Partner(s):	w/ Rob Garneau
  Notes:	Finish was much nicer than Independence but the snow was to heavy for good skiing.

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• Peak:	Bear Creek Spire
  Route:	North Ridge
  Grade:	III 5.9
  Elevation:	13,720 ft.
  Date:	June 1977
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker
  Notes:	From what I can recall, I do remember being a little underwhelmed by this climb.

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• Peak:	Bear Creek Spire
  Route:	Northeast Face
  Grade:	II 5.5
  Elevation:	13,720 ft.
  Date:	May 2013
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A route with a fair number of options, but I get the feeling most people do this the same way I did. Touch of 5th class and a cold west side finish on the North Arete. Easy downclimb descent to the Col.

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• Peak:	Cathedral
  Route:	Southeast Face
  Grade:	II 5.7
  Elevation:	10,911 ft.
  Date:	Sept 1995
  Partner(s):	w/ Eric Olsen and Rob Garneau
  Notes:	Fun, but a bit short. Rock quality seemed lacking. Really grainy.

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• Peak:	Cleaver, The
  Route:	Southeast Buttress
  Grade:	III 5.7
  Elevation:	13,382 ft.
  Date:	Aug 1979
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	Wasn't known as the Cleaver back then.

• 

• Peak:	Clouds Rest
  Route:	East Ridge
  Grade:	Class 2
  Elevation:	9,931 ft.
  Date:	Sept 2017
  Partner(s):	w/ Betsy Harrison
  Notes:	Nice long hike. Weekend crowds were huge, but what can you expect, it's Yosemite.

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• Peak:	Clyde Peak
  Route:	Starlilght Pillar
  Grade:	III 5.9
  Elevation:	13,855 ft.
  Date:	Sept 1976
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	A long wonderful day. Had no idea how to get off the peak, but ended up doing what is now the std descent via the NE Face.

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• Peak:	Conness
  Route:	Harding Route
  Grade:	IV 5.10 A2
  Elevation:	12,590 ft.
  Date:	Sept 1979
  Partner(s):	w/ Mark Whiton and Rainsford Rouner
  Notes:	Summited as the sun set and spent a comfy night with food and sleeping bags followed by a mellow descent the next morning.

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• Peak:	Dade
  Route:	North Face
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	13,600 ft.
  Date:	June 2011
  Partner(s):	w/ Rob Garneau
  Notes:	Great route. Probably should have dug a snow pit as the face slide about 4 days later.

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• Peak:	Dana
  Route:	Std North Side
  Grade:	Class 2
  Elevation:	13,057 ft.
  Date:	June 2009
  Partner(s):	w/ Jim Nupp
  Notes:	Nice hike. Best done in spring when the snow fields add a bit of spice to the effort.

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• Peak:	Darwin
  Route:	North Face
  Grade:	moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,831 ft.
  Date:	June 1981
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Casual route on north face. Descended the West Ridge

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• Peak:	Emerson
  Route:	SE Face
  Grade:	III 5.4
  Elevation:	13,225 ft.
  Date:	Sept 2018
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Went at the 5.4 move all wrong - maybe even in the wrong place, so decided to take the alternate start to the right.

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• Peak:	Feather
  Route:	SW Ridge
  Grade:	Class 3/4
  Elevation:	13,240 ft.
  Date:	June 2012
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A good route from the pass. Just stick with the arete as much as you can.

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• Peak:	Gilbert
  Route:	Ingram Couloir
  Grade:	moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,106 ft.
  Date:	June 2012
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Not much of a freeze the night before. So kicking steps was the order of the day. The obvious finish is the 3rd class version. Long descent via Treasure Col

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• Peak:	Goethe - Northeast Peak
  Route:	North West Face
  Grade:	moderate snow, class 4
  Elevation:	13,040 ft.
  Date:	May 2009
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Lots of new but stable snow. Made the rock climbing a bit more interesting that's for sure.

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• Peak:	Goode
  Route:	North Buttress West
  Grade:	III 5.9
  Elevation:	13,085 ft.
  Date:	July 1983
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	6 pitches on a so so route west of the normal North Pillar

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• Peak:	Gould
  Route:	South slopes
  Grade:	Class 2
  Elevation:	13,012 ft.
  Date:	May 2018
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Nice bouldering finish to this route is totally out of character with the slog up the hill from Kearsarge Pass

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• Peak:	Haeckel
  Route:	North Face / North Ridge
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	13,418 ft.
  Date:	June 2012
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	One of the best routes I've done. The couloir approach is spring only but gives the route a true alpine flavor. The rock finish is really good. The quality excellent. Descended the west side of the peak which seems alot more obvious.

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• Peak:	Humphreys
  Route:	Std Northwest Face
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	13,986 ft.
  Date:	June 2013
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Doing this route is sping is a good idea. The chute is far more fun when it's full of snow. The upper crack system was a bit icy that day. Certainly kept things interesting. The crux is short but spectacular.

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• Peak:	Huxley
  Route:	North Face
  Grade:	moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,086 ft.
  Date:	June 1981
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A fun route that is only worthy of your time when spring conditions prevail.

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• Peak:	Independence
  Route:	East Face Couloir
  Grade:
  Elevation:	11,742 ft.
  Date:	June 2011
  Partner(s):	w/ Rob Garneau
  Notes:	Rob skied, I watched.

• 

• Peak:	Keeler Needle
  Route:	Harding Route
  Grade:	V 5.10 A1
  Elevation:	14,239 ft.
  Date:	Aug 1976
  Partner(s):	w/ Rainsford Rouner
  Notes:	Done with a bivy and minimal aid just in front of Rowell and friends doing the FFA. I forgot the water, so we couldn't really eat anything that night. Mary meet us half down the Mountaineers route and fortunately for us she had lot of water with her!

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• Peak:	Lamarck
  Route:	North Face Coluoir
  Grade:	AI2, moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,417 ft.
  Date:	May 1981
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	The first climb on the memorable North Lake to South Lake loop in 1981. Can't recall seeing anyone the whole week I was out there.

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• Peak:	Lamarck
  Route:	North Face Coluoir
  Grade:	AI2, moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,417 ft.
  Date:	May 2012
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Good conditions though it gets too much sun so was melted out at the top.

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• Peak:	Langley
  Route:	Std South Face Route
  Grade:	Class 2
  Elevation:	14,026 ft.
  Date:	May 2013
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Another long walk that could be really boring once all the snow is gone. In this case there was plenty of it, even after a lean winter.

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• Peak:	Lone Pine Peak
  Route:	North Ridge
  Grade:	III 5.7
  Elevation:	12,944 ft.
  Date:	June 2011
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Big winter. Still a fair amount of snow on the route. Hardest part was the direct ridge as the Fin section was still snowy.

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• Peak:	Lyell
  Route:	Northwest Face
  Grade:	moderate snow, 4th class
  Elevation:	13,120 ft.
  Date:	May 2021
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Another popular climb with an easy approach from either Tuolumne or the longer more scenic route from Rush Creek over Dononue Pass. Secors description talks of easier ground via the first reall gully left of the saddle. For my money the better way to go is to climb the intricate slabs and ledges on the northewest face proper. There are more than a few small cairns to mark the way, particularly so for the descent where your view down the route is not obvious. A short but solid route with a great view of Yosemite's alpine country.

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• Peak:	Matterhorn
  Route:	West Ridge
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	12,285 ft.
  Date:	Sept 2018
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	No expectations with what little beta I had. Turns out if you stay with the ridge all the way, it's an excellent route.

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• Peak:	Mendel
  Route:	Mendel Couloir
  Grade:	AI 3
  Elevation:	13,710 ft.
  Date:	Aug 1975
  Partner(s):	w/ Mark Richey and Rainsford Rouner
  Notes:	Back in the day when this climb was a classic all year long.

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• Peak:	Mills
  Route:	East Face gully
  Grade:	Class 4, moderate snow
  Elevation:	13,451 ft.
  Date:	May 2021
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Why do I keep saying that springtime ascents are the preferred season to climb in the High Sierra? This route is a fine example of something that I would steer clear of in the dryer summer months. It also gave me a chance to descend to the north and thus do a long circuit around the region. Did the left hand gully. When the gully pinches off at its top, a short section of stout rock climbing to get out of the gully to the right made more sense as the squeeze chimney finish looked a bit more than I was willing to solo. Some melted out ground lead to a fine snowfield finish. The summit is a bit of a hike south towards Abbot.

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• Peak:	Muir
  Route:	Std West Face scramble
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	14,012 ft.
  Date:	May 2015
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A bit more interesting doing this on a cold day with spin-drift all over the ledges on the summit block.

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• Peak:	Peak 13016
  Route:	East Buttress
  Grade:	IV 5.8
  Elevation:	13,016 ft.
  Date:	May 1981
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	Can't remember much about this pretty nice route on the right(east) side of the big face on Pk 30016+. Descended the snow gully to the east w/o axes or crampons at the end of the day. Not to smart.

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• Peak:	Pilot Knob
  Route:	Std North Face scramble
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	12,245 ft.
  Date:	Sept 2015
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A short but well situated route that has a great view in all directions.

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• Peak:	Powell
  Route:	North Face
  Grade:	moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,364 ft.
  Date:	May 2009
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Straight forward route, Best done in spring when Echo lake is still frozen.

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• Peak:	Russell
  Route:	East Ridge
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	14,088 ft.
  Date:	May 2014
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Much more of an alpine route in the spring. Still straight forward. Lousy sunrise after all the effort to get up the sandy slope in the dark.

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• Peak:	Sheperds Crest
  Route:	South Ridge
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	12,040 ft.
  Date:	Sept 2019
  Partner(s):	Chuck
  Notes:	Barely 3rd class if at all, but more than worthy of your effort as the view is spectacular: Dana, Ritter Range Conness and N Peak etc

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• Peak:	Sill
  Route:	Swiss Arete
  Grade:	II 5.7
  Elevation:	14,153 ft.
  Date:	Sept 1979
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	After Mary and I bailed on the main East Face, the next day I was just too restless and in need of getting up something, so I soloed this route thinking it was 5.4

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• Peak:	Stanford
  Route:	East Face
  Grade:	III 5.8
  Elevation:	13,973 ft.
  Date:	Aug 1979
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	One memorable day on a good new route for which I will always berate myself for losing all the images from the climb. Damn! There was major undercast clouds which definitely added to the drama. Skies cleared as we moved along the summit ridge. Seemed pretty straight-forward getting off the peak by descending SE from the low point before Gregory's Monument.

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• Peak:	Starlight
  Route:	Northwest Chute
  Grade:	Class 4
  Elevation:	14,200 ft.
  Date:	Sept 2018
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	One of the best of the so called 'chute' routes on the west side. Has a fair amount of character. You can pick a wonderful line in the upper chute, but finding that on the way down is impossible. Way too much loose choss takes the edge of a wonderful route. Did 5 raps along the way.

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• Peak:	Starr
  Route:	South Ridge
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	12,840 ft.
  Date:	May 2021
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Yet another route enhanced by an early season ascent. Wander up from Mono Pass to the saddle at the south end of the summit ridge. Then scramble all the way north over 1 false summit to the barely higher north summit. I should have descended the same way. West slope is steep choss.

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• Peak:	Temple Crag
  Route:	Sun Ribbon Arete
  Grade:	IV 5.10a
  Elevation:	12,976 ft.
  Date:	June 1977
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei and Bryan Becker
  Notes:	A long day no doubt. Skipped the summit and started down as soon as we could. A rope of 3 should simul climb or belay both seconds at the same time. I can't recall if we did either.

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• Peak:	Thompson
  Route:	Harrington Couloir
  Grade:	moderately steep snow
  Elevation:	13,494 ft.
  Date:	May 2012
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Spring conditions for sure. Snow was in good nick. Bit of a bulge going over the lip at the top. Descended via the North Ridge

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• Peak:	Tyndall
  Route:	Northwest Face
  Grade:	AI 2
  Elevation:	14,019 ft.
  Date:	May 2014
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A good route taking into account that the idea was to stay on the snow as much as possible. Should have come down the same way. The west face was long, tedious and the talus was loose. Big winds arrived that afternoon.

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• Peak:	University
  Route:	North Buttress / East Face
  Grade:	IV 5.9 A1
  Elevation:	13,589 ft.
  Date:	May 1983
  Partner(s):	w/ Mary Erdei
  Notes:	11 pitches, only completed the lower half of the route we had in mind, ran out of time so moved left to finish on easier ground, descended in the dark

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• Peak:	University
  Route:	Northwest Face
  Grade:	AI 2
  Elevation:	13,589 ft.
  Date:	May 2014
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	Spur of the moment change of plans. A good line on this side of the mountain. Not very steep but good situations none the less. Descended off the south side via University Pass.

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• Peak:	Whitney
  Route:	Mount Whitney
  Grade:	Class 2
  Elevation:	14,498 ft.
  Date:	May 1975
  Partner(s):	w/ Chip Cole and Mary Erdei
  Notes:	Fair amount of snow, but few if any other people around for the end of May. Lucky us.

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• Peak:	Winchell
  Route:	Southeast Face
  Grade:	Class 3
  Elevation:	13,775 ft.
  Date:	June 2013
  Partner(s):	solo
  Notes:	A fun route on high quality rock.